Stay Classy, Stockholm

(and I've decided I like visual aids)

So this was Stockholm weekend and it was amazing. I sort of botched the timing in an attempt to miss fewer classes but I should have just skipped Monday as well as Friday. Anyway too late now and I had a great time despite my terrible planning.

As of Thursday afternoon I had a train to and from Edinburgh but no way of getting from Skavsta Airport to Stockholm proper. Because online bus timetables are hard enough to decipher in English. So my lovely Norwegian roomie Kristine translated than deciphered them for me and helped me get tickets.
Step one and done.

So the next day I catch the 10am to Edinburgh that I had book a week in advance...it's standing room only even though I already had a prepaid ticket. SO I stand for about an hour. The earliest flight to Stockholm was at three so I gave myself some time to actually look around the city I have burned through on my way to more exotic locals several times. The Scottish National Museum and Portrait Gallery is stunning. And free. So I spent my free couple of hours there perusing Rembrandt and Singer-Sargent  (Lady Agnew might be my new favorite impressionist painting ever, sorry Renoir...you still win best overall) and wandering around the park... it was decidedly relaxing for a travel day.

I got to my gate just in time. Possibly cut it a little close but the Lady Agnew was worth it. Grabbed a sandwich at the airport party-like store that was surprisingly good (possibly because it was three and I was running on the slice of Nutella toast and I'd had for breakfast). The plane ride was bearable....my seat smelled like armpit, thankyou ryan air. But we cruised on after dark and the landscape was stunning. You could see the bright city centers of Stockholm and Nykoping  to the sides and all in between was forest cut through with wide rivers, that made me keep thinking Bayou, and the little fairy lights of houses and highways inbetween. Needless to say it made me less bitter about getting in so late.

Then the customs guy gave me the stink eye and acted like he wasn't going to let me through because my return ticket was to Scotland and not the old US of A. But he stamped it.

Now to find my bus...in the pitchdark freezing cold. Luckily I found a line that looked like it was for a bus to Stockholm and asked the last two guys in line. Turns out I was correct and we're from Penn State but we're studying in St Andrews this semester, where are you from? So at least I had someone to talk to on the hour and a half bus ride that was supposed to be 45 minutes.

We had an in-depth discussion of the Fall of Nickelodeon from it's Glory Days in our youth.
The world is just not the same without a few Angry Beavers and Real Monsters.

Not to mention the gaping hole in Televisions everywhere that Legends of The Hidden Temple left as its legacy.
But I digress...

Dad has been at the bus station since like 7 even though I told him It'd be 8 at the earliest and now its closer to 9. So he's starving and my sandwich didn't last very long so we get me a metro pass and leave in search of Beer&Pizza.

Success is had...even if the pizza's kind of crappy and the beer is Carlsburg 

(good but not exactly exotic)

The pizza wasn't bad I'm just sure we ate at the Swedish equivalent of Little Caesars.

...which actually now that I mention it sounds fan-freaking-tastic. What do you say Ma, crazy bread with the Christmas roast?

Then we walked around Gamla Stan (Old Town, where the palace is) and took the long way home so it was kind of a night tour/get you bearings for tomorrow thing.

The Metro stop for the hotel is literally across the street from the Electrolux home office, which is a retro-fitted hospital, which was kind of cool. Dad's hotel was right behind it. Ok so I have to give Swedes the prize for smartest people ever. On the walk to the hotel there was this thing to the side of the stairs that looked like a handicap ramp but with a tiny set of stairs in the middle....stroller ramp. Bam.

As soon as we get back to the hotel I turn on the TV and am done (besides a short foray into the bathroom to test out the heated towel bar) not only and I exhausted but I have been watching TV in youtube quality videos on mons 11 inch screen for 2 months...I was ready for some Minority Report and Top Gear on a state-of-the art LCD. And have one of the awesome Czech beers dad had in the fridge.

Next morning Dad and I hit breakfast which he complained was the worst he's had in Stockholm (I thought it was great, he was just whining because the best thing in the spread was yogurt and (amazing) granola). Then we hopped the subway to the museum district only to find that we had dragged ourselves out of bed at 8 in vain... the national museum doesn't open until 11. So we walk back to Gamla Stan in search of a store mom wants us to find. FAIL. Not only does it take us forever to find it... she kept telling us it was by the troll bridge wtf that means. There were no trolls on any bridges on the *entire* island. When we do find the store it's a block from this...

An enormous and epic statue of St. George killing the Dragon (that was St. George right?) and all along the street there were banners with the out line of this statue on them. But no the troll bridge was out landmark. We think we found the place but it was, unsurprisingly, closed.

The Place (we think) note the st. George banner

We made up for this fail (and how cold we were accomplishing it) with Swedish varm choklad...which is not Hot chocolate, it is warm chocolate soup.

Observe.

It's so rich they serve it with a glass of water (which you need)

Then we went to the national museum.
It was pretty cool and they had a large variety of artists and movements, saw a few more Rembrandts, some Renoir. They had a really cool statuary exhibit going on. Dad skipped the one on modernism and industrialization.

I went back to it after he left and found this.

We spent a little over an hour there then he had to go to his retreat/team building thing for work (which is international businessman speak for kindergarten games at a castle). And I saw the rest of the museum. the last exhibit on the top floor...the one he missed was a travelling exhibit on Napoleon and Alexander I of Sweden. It was really cool. The exhibit followed his career from start to exile and had the artifacts to go along with it (I will admit Josephine's jewelery was probably the best part).

After the national museum I headed to the next peninsula over for the Vassa which I could speand several hundred words telling you the amazing history of but suffice to say it was the brand new flag ship in the 1600's and never made it out of the city because they miscalculated how much extra ballast it's height and rediculous amount of decoration would need. So it stayed at the bottom until the 70's when it was painstakingly salvaged and place in the Vassa museum (which was built specifically for it and is even sort of boat shaped from the outside).

                  Then                                                                                Now

It was a very well put together museum, it followed the ship, it followed the salvage and restoration processes and lots of cool interactive displays...it would be really fun to take kids to. And it had a 25 minute movie so I could rest my aching feet. All in all I spent about 2 hours there (actually I spent about two hours in all three museums).

Next up was the Scandinavian museum. Dad had mentioned that it looked cool and it was right across the street from the Vassa so I went. There was a huge line and I couldn't figure out what was going on. Turns out I stumbled into the chocolate festival.

Needless to say I skipped lunch.

They had daily life through the ages split up by room of the house rather than time period... so that was fun. There was a tiny little hallway of terrors that was full of doll-houses. Seriously the creepiest thing I have ever witnessed. It didn't help that it was in a shadowy, empty corner of the top floor very far away from all the hustle and bustle of the chocolate conference. There was also a sample table setting from the 1600's  with a taxidermy Swan centerpiece that had a roasted swan in it....that they actually expected people to eat (not actually but they would have back then) it was gross and kind of mesmerizing.

Then more Chocolate.

Then back to Gamla Stan. Mom's store was still closed.

So I went to the metro station. And realized I was starving. This is my super classy moment (well the whole evening was pretty classy), I went to a metro station burger king and got a whopper Jr in Stockholm.

And it was perfect.

The fries where hot the burger fresh and, the crowning jewel, they had Heinz 57. Although I think the lettuce might have been sweet pickled or something. But we all know it's all about the fries.

I was actually still kind of hungry and briefly contemplated getting a Big Mac for comparison but the initial meal had kinda made me sick. So I went back to the hotel (hey it was dark out and everything was closed) flopped down with a brew and started channel surfing for the first time in months. Bliss.

Except half of the 35 channels were the same thing (some strange stage production of Bernie Madoff's life in Swedish) and the rest were game shows (in Swedish).

So I made the perfectly legitimate choice to watch "Pretty Woman"

Then I realized I was sort of hungry so I texted day and asked him to get gummies on his was home. He complied. uber-bliss.

After the movie something about WWII came on and dad and I got into an "Academic Discussion" on how Germany would have faired without Hitler screwing his generals on the eastern front. I think the conclusion was that they could have taken Europe if they had stopped Japan from trying Pearl Harbor (because the Manhattan project would have ended everything no matter what) and placated Stalin until they had a stable widespread and well organized empire in Europe (which would have never happened) but Soviet Russia and The Reich could not have lived near each other. Ever. So basically we argued ourselves into it being impossible from both our angles. So basically we did what we always do, Pinky.

The next morning I had another amazing granola breakfast and showed my class one more time by making a ham sandwich from breakfast buffet items and wrapping it in a napkin for the plane.

Then Dad and I went on an honest to goodness Sunday morning stroll (we called it an Urban Hike but it was a Sunday stroll). We found a huge park with a statue of Linnaeus...Dad thought I said he invented Taxidermy, I definitely said Taxonomy.

Then went to Gamla Stan one more time...mom's shop was still closed.

On the way to the bus station 9I had to leave at 1) we were supposed to be souvenir shopping, and Dad tried (we even walked all the way back to this one shop after lunch, I still didn't end up getting anything) but it just wasn't worth it to try to get into shopping with him waiting outside.

Then we found my bus and I was off, I actually ran into the same two boys so we compared notes on the plane home.

All in all it was a very satisfying weekend...I just wish I had gotten a Scarf (and skipped a few more classes but you know).

UPDATE: Just got a package fro Grandma Pat, it contains the last few ingredients i need to to introduce my roomates to the joys of grandma's apple pie and special-K treats. Not to mention Peanut butter, tea and dried apricots made of sunshine and amazing

Strip the Willow, Stalk the Golfer and Hike the Ben

So the weekend started early this week (read I've actually made friends i don't live with willing to put up with me during the week).

So a Day-by-day replay after the shoutouts.

Let's get a WOOT! for Ma, Mom, Aunt Sis! Thank you for indulging my love of Halloween and sending me any and all suplies necessary to share it with my roomies America-style. Mom all would have been lost is you hadn't sent me my Star Fleet uniform after I was dumb enough to decide I wouldn't need it (why on Earth I ever came to that conclusion I will never know ;). Ma, you kept your word and didn't send REAL pumpkins (like you do when I'm in SC) but the both the mural and collapsible trick-or-treat ones are perfect (as are the butter finger and twix...yeas there's still some left...sorta). Although Aunt Sis' Gingerbread haunted  house kinda takes the cake (hehe)...I plan to throw a full on halloween party like my flatmates have never seen!

So...Monday

Pia Sarah and I found our new "place." It's an old Theater that's been re vamped in crazy colors, lamps and pinball machines...plus it has the best bar-burger and fries in Dundee. And the ketchup is both edible and available in useful quantities (if you get it here and its not so sweet as to be absolutly sickening you get about three foil packets...which is an unacceptable amount). This place is awesome you can get a burger, fries and a pint for 3 pound 30. No onion rings but I'll survive until christmas I suppose.

Tuesday something happened but that was a week ago so... ohh no I remember I met the city planning kids at Social because Laura (who is totes awesome and my first real Scottish friend) invited me. She's in my Environmental Methods and Monitoring class but is technically in the town planning program. We bonded over movies then I went to Tally's to try to find my flatmates, the boys were there but Sarah ditched us.

Wednesday was the rucksack club meeting but we only stayed at the pub (yes the pub...all official school events that aren't lectures are held in pubs) long enough to sign up to go to Ben Nevis on Sunday and find out where the Ceilidh was being held on friday (more on that, and my bruises, later). Martin had decided that he wanted to see the Law view at night so after Sarah and I followed him up there. Law apparently means hill, and that's what this is...a super big hill with a monument thing on top from which you can see the entire city. The walk up was a bit sketchy in places mostly because Martin was having trouble finding the way in the dark, so we just kept going uphill assuming we'd find the top. It was like an urban night hike. Took us about 45 minute but it was breathtaking from the top all the lights of the city and the boats and bridges it was amazing. Luckily Sarah brought her camera 'cause I forgot mine.

We stopped at a party store on the way up to grab some beer so we could drink it at the top (Germans have this thing about drinking beer on peaks...Martin packed Tennants all the way up Ben Nevis)

Thursday after class I met Laura at the library and we walked back to her place for dinner/movie night with her roomies Hannah and Eleanor. She made an awesome shrimp (excuse me, prawn) stir-fry and we watched "Lady Jane" with Helena Bonham-Carter and The Dread Pirate Roberts (can't remember his real name but don't act like you don't know exactly who I mean) it was pretty good. I felt bad that I sort-of left laura to make dinner but I was having a great conversation with her roomates while she was in the kitchen. I can't get over how much I love the accent so I'm more talkative in a simple effort to get everyone else to talk. Laura is legally deaf, she can hear with her hearing aids in but lip-reading helps, so it was a bit hard to remember to face her while addressing the room. I mostly forget she has trouble in class because we are whispering directly at each other so she can always see my face. She is actually I hiker as well so she told me a bit about what to expect from Ben Nevis, which was cold, fog and hiking for hours for a view that probably wouldn't be visible...great. I had an awesome time with them though and didn't end up leaving til late. They have a real apartment (the kind that actual people, not just students, live in) so it was a ways away so Hannah drove me home. I plan on insinuating myself into their movie night from now on ;) 

Friday was the rucksack club Ceilidh. I was really tired and I knew it was a really long walk away and I really just wanted to stay home. But Sarah forced me to go (she even dressed me) so thank you dear I would have really missed out. It was so much fun. When we first walked in it looked kind of lame and we didn't know any of the dances (although I think there was an immediate mutual appreciation that Scottish boys still wear kilts as formal wear). I honestly though it was going to be the worst fiver I'd ever spent. Half a Guiness in things were looking better and some of the club guys took pity on us and hauled us up on the dance floor (I think Martin and Kristine had taken a spin at this point and maybe Robin but the rest of us were still getting our bearings at the table...read Drinking). 

The group! from left: Kaia, Robin, Martin, Kristine, Danika, Sarah, me

So Ewan (one of our "guides" from the first trip, but he's a really nice guy) pulls me into a group dance that I don't know the name of ... it was a bit confusing and I'm sure I messed parts up but on the whole it wasn't too hard to follow.  There was an older guy in full regalia that may have been a plant to show us the moves (even the Scottish kids floundered a bit) that danced with all of us. The table nicknamed him creeper but he was just a nice old guy...he taught me a Scottish Waltz so it's all good. 

Me and Danika

Then I think I danced with Martin, Robin, and Ewan a few more times. I did strip the Willow with old guy. it brings entirely new meaning to "swing your partner" between it and the final dance with Ewan (which was just running down a line of people and using them as fulcrums to swing ourselves back at each other so we could catch arms in the middle and do it again) I've got a pretty distinguished bruise on the inside of my left upper-arm, and one on my elbow.

Martin and I totally floundered through this dance, but it was fun.

So after all that Saturday Robin, Danika, Sarah, Martin and I got up early to head to St. Andrews. I wanted to check out the town see the Abbey  ruins and the Links but it was the weekend of the Celebrity Dunhill tournament and Danika had her heart set on stalking Hugh Grant. In Danika's defense I was not an unwilling participant once I was informed Samuel L Jackson would be there (Martin wan't impressed and stayed in St Andrews). So we got to St. Andrews saw the links and wandered the beach a bit (I totally ran on the beach "Chariots of Fire" was filmed on!) until the shuttle to Carnoustie showed up to take us to stalker heaven. So the moral of the story is I saw some amazing golf courses and possibly my favorite actor of all time on saturday (ohh and Andy Garcia and Hugh Grant). 

 There was a problem with the shuttle on the way back so we just took the bus straight back to Dundee so I didn't end up seeing the rest of St. Andrews But it was a pretty satisfying day (I got pastries). I think I'll take Lillian there when she comes in a couple weekends. And that night one of the churches down the street was doing a Scottish cooking demonstration so we got a free dinner on top of it (Karma making up for the shuttle that left early ;)

And Sunday is our grand Finale of Ben Nevis. The highest peak in the UK. 

Head of the Trail

This was definitely a harder hike but much more enjoyable because Kristine, Robin Martin, Emanuele, Thomas and I stuck together and went our own way so weren't chasing after other people the whole time. That and everyone was ok with me being a pansy-ass and stopping all the time. Kristine was awesome and had ibuprofen so I didn't have a balloon for a knee this time.We still made great time though did the 8.5 hour hike in about 6 I think (if you don't count us stopping for lunch on the way down...we were ahead and sort of waiting for the rest of the club that took the same route but we never really saw them). There was this beautiful lake halfway up the mountain just sitting this little valley that was stunning....so we stopped and ate lunch (I brought my leftover St. Andrews pastry up the mountain). It was a great hike (look at the pics) we got started a little late because Martin had to find a beer to drink on top of the mountain (he promised his friend so we forgave him). The trail was really well maintained and the weather was gorgeous. We were warned that the peak gets something like 10 days of sunlight a year and that it was going to be freezing. The view was clear and I stripped down to my tank for most of it again. I guess the alcohol thing wasn't such a bad idea... I had a jack and coke on top of the highest peak in the UK (did anyone else know it came in cans? I surley didn't, thanks Robin)

Robin had the awesome idea of using Sepia and made some North Face ads 

We ate at a pub called the Grog and Gruel so that was cool too....curly fries but still no onion rings.

I'm sure I forgot a ton but this is getting long so that's all for now folks. 

Sunday May Vary: In Which our Hero Finds her Soul-mate

So this is ostensibly the post for Isle of Skye but I have to start of with "The Not-So-Fatal-Death of Grandpa Fredo"It was... I want to say spectacular but I feel like I have spent a majority of my time on the blog in well deserved hyperbole... so I will attempt an unbiased assessment.

It was not entirely what I was expecting, I knew a small Scottish company was putting it on and that it was based on a true story. What I didn't know was that it was based on a story that took place in the States. There was a Scottish police detective (and that is apparently a true part) and the protagonist was Norwegian but the rest were Americans. Which led to some wonerfully hilarious parody. And there were environmental undertones and heartfelt, human grief wrapped up in dorky-folky sidebars into song... it was just really, really good. I almost teared up during the last scene, which is a feat for a slightly silly, semi-musical that knows what it's taking about.

On to Isle of Skye.

I woke up super early (i'm always paranoid I'm going to miss the train) and packed and ate some toast (I'm almost out of extra crunchy, which is tragic I know, so I've been rationing it and eating Nutella instead). Sarah and I were all ready to go but couldn't find Daniela (she lives down stairs). We were there a few minutes after the meet time so we decided to leave in the hope that she was already on her way, because Daniela never oversleeps.

She overslept.

But she ran and caught up so we all got on the train no problems. We had two exchanges so out trip was from Dundee to Perth, Perth to Inverness, and Inverness to Kyle of Lochalsh.
I love trains.
A lot.
The first two were great (well there was a big match in Inverness apparently so there were a bunch of Drunk rugby fans at first and we were sitting right next to the bathroom, which was entertaining to say the least) but the one from Inverness to Kyle was Spectacular. It was almost empty, most of the stops were by request only and  the scenery was jaw dropping.... I would have been happy with just the train ride. I didn't take and pictures just sat there and soaked it up.

well maybe I took one...

When we got to Kyle we waited around a bit for a bus and Sarah and Daniela had fish and chips at Hectors Bothy. I had packed a Tomato and Cheese sandwich so i just got tea and stole chips (which I have actually started calling chips... it's not nearly as scary as saying y'all).

We shopped a bit and didn't really find anything then our bus showed up and we set off for Broadford, which is actually on the island. Kyle is just right next to the bridge.

Again, I almost would have just been happy with the bus trip. why does the scenery have to be so damn gorgeous absolutely every where here? ...not that I'm, you know, complaining.

We accidentally timed everything perfectly and Robin and Danika were just getting off their bus from the north of the island when we got there ( the lucky dogs don't have class on Friday so they had a head start and stayed until Tuesday).

After meeting up we wandered down to the visitors center and to check out the (not)town. It was cool though, the sort-of town surrounds a nice harbor and there were lots of cool dilapidated fishing boats on the pier to take pretty pictures of. There was also a little wool store tucked in the corner down by there pier. The kind of place that has piles of raw wool in the backyard and plastic trashcans full of dye and mushy wet wool in the lean-to, in other words it was amazing. You walk in and there are yards (possibly miles) of fresh dyed, spun wool yarn hanging from every possibly wall space and tables piled high with knotted works of art dotting the spaces in-between. I fell in love. Literally.

I have found my soul mate... and it is a knit wool hat.

At first there was absolutely no one in the store so I set my beloved down and said I would think about the price (no we shall not speak of it, their is no price on true love) while we went down to the pier. When we came back Robin had decided on a spectacular pair of Orange and techno socks. There was still no one there. So she hollers and finally gets this guy who says he was making dinner...and no in his shop two hours before it closed. Whatever he let me wear the hat out so I was appeased. I still had a moment of hesitation but Robin told me in so many words that I was being stupid and the green went with my eyes so get the damn hat.

I did. And hipster Ana was born.

Then we unpacked in the Hostel, Sarah, Daniela and I had a room to ourselves. And then took a short walk/hike up into the surrounding countryside until it started to get dark. During which robin and I somehow discovered we had both read Brian Jacques growing up so we totally had to have like a two hour conversation on that...everyone else walked ahead for a bit.
So anyway we turned around and stopped at a grocery store for breakfast and asked the lady where to eat "oh aye theres Claymore's a wee bit down'thy rood that'away"

4 miles later (not really I suppose but it felt like it)

So we sat in Claymore's the rest of the night eating fish and chips and drinking some dark ale they brew on the island. The onion rings were terrible though, Danika and I had been craving them so we tried. They were like circles of onion flavor paste dropped in the fryer. We even got dessert. Which I never do. Robin and I shared something traditional and Scottish that was like heavy meringue with raspberries and whiskey in the sauce ('cause it's Scottish). It was...different. Good but it felt like a topping rather than a dessert in itself...it was perfect when we dumped the rest of Sarah's Black Forest cake on top ;)

Then it started raining so we ordered another round to wait it out.

Which *actually* worked, good to know, so we trooped back to the hostel and sacked out. And  If I have my timelines correct I believe at about this time in Anderson South Carolina a certain Scott Ross Barber was attempting to trick his wife into watching the movie "Hostel"

We know this didn't actually end up happening because a UN task force was not dispatched to collect me.

Next Morning we headed back to the docks in kyle to grab a glass bottom boat tour. it wasn't one of the lame ones where the boat is just kind of flattish at the bottom and has a pane of glass you actually went down into the hold and looked out the glass walls. it was like a reverse aquarium. Our Captain was very knowledgeable on local wildlife (he chased down some river otters for us) and history, so it was a great tour. And there was only one other coupe besides us so we pretty much had it to ourselves.

We only had a few more hours until Sarah, Daniela and I had to catch the train but we made the most of them....I got Sarah's wedding present for one. We tried to go to the giftshop/rail museum at the station but this greeted us. I laughed too hard to be irritated and it was open once our train came in. At least they were being honest.

Train ride back to Inverness was awesome we had 8 seats for the tree of us it was so empty and just spread out and relaxed, napped, had some cider, took in the scenery. So relaxing.

 After Inverness it was less fun. Crowded trains in the dark are boring and uncomfortable but we made it home happy so it all turned out ok.

So that was my weekend

Denial, Anger, Bargaining, Depression & Begrudging Acceptance or a Short Study of my Relationship with Fashion in the UK

So let me preface this post with two caveats.

1) I am never to be mistaken with anyone who knows anything about fashion... usually the most you can tell from my outfit choices is how late I managed to sleep in today (sweats and a Tee=about 5 minutes to get dressed, sun-dress = about 7, and any other two piece outfit at least 10)

2) this does not in anyway indicate that I think fashion is better in SC ( i just didn't have a blog to bitch about it then ;). To remedy that, Carolinas Girls... work-out sweats/hotpants with a sorority tee, polka-dot ribbons in you hair and enormous fake pearls around your neck will never be a valid lifestyle choice, so just keep pretending it is.

That felt good. Moving on.

I have begun dressing like a UK girl and offer photographic evidence.

 Granted I'm still rather tame by thier standards but I have decided to fully embrace the culture (mostly because I'm running out of clothes that match and don't want to do laundry... my goal is four loads while I'm here, and I brought 4 tide single use packets). If I were wearing paisley, hounds-tooth or plaid under the jean jacket instead of a skintight black quarter sleeve and a more prominent scarf this outfit might qualify as UK University wear.

I have realized that skintight legwear and scarves really are key.

So to make this work I need to get at least three new pairs of leggings, two pairs of knit tights, and a rugby scarf (luckily I'm still enough of a Michigan girl that I brought a pair of daisy dukes to wear with the tights.... which is also an obligatory outfit here).

End minipost/rant